Where to take a dog in Humboldt County: Black Sands Beach

Humans love to drive near beautiful places, with one of their favorites being the gorgeous and greatly accessible coast of California.
But there are a few spots even along this most coveted shoreline that aren't carved by pavement: secluded stretches of wild sand guarded by mountains who laugh at roads. Mountains so formidable they can push even the prized Highway 1 away from the ocean, creating a gem in Humboldt County called The Lost Coast. 

Leave civilization behind on the shores of the Lost Coast.

This extra-rugged section of the rugged north coast begins in the northern corner of Mendocino County and comes courtesy of the King Range, which demands that all humans walk into the special realm of sea, sand and fog that it protects from civilization.

My introduction to the Lost Coast shore began where the pavement ends at Shelter Cove, which for most is also the southern end of an epic, 28-mile hiking trek known as the Lost Coast Trail. Even the drive to Shelter Cove and Black Sands Beach is slightly epic: a steep, winding trip that is definitely not for those prone to carsickness.
And once you park, you are reminded over and over again that you've left the modern asphalt world behind to enter one ruled by nature:

• Before you reach the sand you must pass several “Danger” signs warning you of “intermittent waves of unusual size and force,” and advising you to stay at least 100 feet away from the water. And once you see the steep drop off between the water’s edge and the waves, you’ll want to.
• The beach is often beset by winds that make it so uncomfortable to walk north that visitors are advised to hike the Lost Coast Trail only from north to south. And no matter which direction you choose, you can't head out until you've studied the tide charts, because a tide of higher than three feet will strand you at Punta Gorda.
• Little of what you’re walking on is actually sand, and the beach should really be called Black Rocks Beach. And while many of those rocks are very small, some of them are baseball-sized, and the larger ones cover more and more ground as you head north.
• Most of the other people you will see look like they happily left civilization long ago: Dirty, exhausted-yet-ecstatic souls at the end of the journey they began days earlier at the northern end of the Lost Coast Trail.
  

Photo by Nathan DeHart

As for the dog, I will admit this hike was problematic for mine in the summer because of the hot, black rocks. But I still think it is worth visiting, especially if you both crave long stretches of nearly empty off-leash beaches.
Since this is part of the King Range National Conservation Area managed by the federal Bureau of Land Management, dogs can be under voice control. However, my dog did not like walking on rocks or even fine gravel, and soon after hitting the hot sand she flopped on her side and stuck her feet in the air in protest until I pointed her closer to the water.
I suggest you let your dog cool their paws as much as possible in the creek at the beginning of the beach. Or better yet, have them wear booties as were recommended by the helpful guidebook that pointed me to Black Sands Beach and many other great places to take my dog: Best Dog Hikes in Northern California

Where to hike with a dog in Sonoma County: Jenner Headlands

I'll admit, the trails at Jenner Headlands Preserve definitely have some drawbacks for dogs. First, they have to be on-leash. Second, the reason for the leashes is cows. Lots of them. And if you have a dog bred to herd livestock like mine, you'll need a lot more than a leash to keep both of you on the trail when cows are near.                        

Even so, I still recommend this trail because the views are tremendous. It's truly glorious to be able to climb a mountain so close to the ocean, to feel sometimes as if you're soaring above it.

So if you can't stand hiking without your dog, and you've got a strong arm and strong collar, then by all means take your dog to enjoy those views with you.

The trailhead is just a few miles north of Jenner on Highway 1 and has a large parking lot that is easy to pull into and free of charge. But despite its many spaces, the parking lot was already nearly full by mid-morning on a recent Saturday visit.

Since most of our fellow hikers were heading up the "Sea to Sky Trail" on our visit, we turned right to take the Raptor Ridge Trail and meet up with the Wildflower Loop. In mid-April, that route was quite muddy and detours were still in effect, and it might still be muddy in early June given the recent rains. That trail also takes you very close to the highway at points, so if you want to escape the road more quickly, head to the left, where you can immediately enjoy sweeping views of the ocean.

But again, look out for those cows. There were so many cows using the trail at one point that we took to the steep hillside for about half a mile to give them plenty of space. The trail map advises hikers to approach the cows calmly using a normal voice until they move off the trail, but we were not brave enough to do that.

We also did not make the 7.5-mile hike to the top of Pole Mountain (13 miles round-trip), and instead chose about a four-mile loop that followed the Raptor Ridge trail on the way up and the Sea to Sky trail on the way down, plus a mile or so detour looking for the Wildflower Loop, which I never found the sign for.

Words to the Wise:

• There is no water available but there are restrooms, which were built to blend in nicely with the hillside. And once the vegetation around them builds up, they will disappear even more into the landscape. Since there is no running water, there are only pit toilets inside, but there was plenty of toilet paper and even incense during my visit.
• It was also very windy during my visit, so much so there were times we felt we were going to tumble down the mountain. Luckily we were finishing our hike about the time the wind really started kicking up, because I saw many hikers begin their hike, then quickly turn around because of the wind.
• Parking is free, and the lot is open 8 a.m. until sunset. The trail to the restrooms is handicapped accessible.

When you want to walk on the beach rather than above it, here's a good beach nearby that allows dogs: Blind Beach

Where to take a dog near Jenner: Blind Beach

Often you find the best things while looking for something else. That's how I discovered Blind Beach near Jenner in Sonoma County, California.

Blind Beach with Goat Rock in the background.

We were driving on Goat Rock Road and hoping to walk the dog before sunset, but the sign at the trail I was looking for said dogs weren't allowed. So we kept going until we found a sign welcoming them at Blind Beach, then stopped at the empty parking lot and I jumped out with the dog.

Heading down to the sand.

And I'm so glad I did, because that was the most beautiful beach I've visited in a long time. It's not easy to get to, so that is likely while the parking lot was empty. Not only do you have to walk down a steep hillside full of switchbacks that give you no indication you will ever reach the beach, you have to use a set of ladder stairs at the bottom to get on the sand.

Those rickety stairs gave the dog pause on the way down, and I worried that I might have to carry her a bit to get her back up. But she flew up them without hesitation, and it was me who struggled the most with them.

I don't mind, though, because those ladder stairs are likely why the beach was empty. Because if we had driven a bit further to Goat Rock Beach, we could have parked just feet from the sand. So I thank that steep hillside and ladder stairs for giving us that beach to ourselves. Especially at sunset, which is a rare treat indeed.

When this dog is happy, her human is happy.

Where to take a dog near Seattle: Marymoor Park

The dog romping in Lake Sammamish.

This dog park has it all: large, open grassy areas for your dog to chase balls by themselves. Long, fenced walking paths that make for pleasant strolls for both of you while meeting plenty of other dogs and people. And, finally, long stretches of beaches on the shores of Lake Sammamish and the Sammamish Slough.

All 40 acres of the park are off-leash, and if you are staying in Seattle, you can reach it by driving only about 20 miles over Lake Washington to Redmond.

Words to the wise: 

• If you have a small dog, they best be brave, because there are no separate areas for them. Also, if you dog isn't super friendly with all dogs, there are very narrow areas that could cause uncomfortable bottlenecks for dogs that don't like meeting strange dogs in enclosed areas.
• If you are staying in or near downtown Seattle, crossing Lake Washington is no easy feat, especially Highway 520. It can be busy all day, but is especially clogged in the mornings with students and staff trying to get to the University of Washington. Be sure and check on the current traffic conditions before you head out. We definitely got stuck in traffic, but watching the dog running freely through the water after being strictly on-leash in the busy city streets, and on her best behavior in our hotel, was well worth the hassle.

Where to stay with a dog in Seattle: The Westin

Where to stay with a dog in Seattle: The Westin

Yes, sometimes she's a city dog, too!

They don't exactly advertise this, but the Westin in downtown Seattle allows dogs. No size limit, and no additional fee.
I love them for that, because I love staying there when I visit Seattle. It's a block from my favorite donut shop, Top Pot, an easy walk to the light rail station and not too far from either the ferry building or my favorite neighborhood, Queen Anne.
But also I like staying there with my large dog because I love the looks we get from the other guests when we walk on the elevator.
"This place allows dogs?" some will ask, and I nod and smile before looking down at my dog, because I love to watch her spend each elevator ride tilting her head from side to side, trying to figure out why we are moving and what is making those noises.

Where to take a dog near Seattle: Marymoor Park

Where to take a dog on the Mendocino Coast: Pelican Bluffs

A bench where you can soak in the views.

Most of the trails along the Mendocino Coast are dog-friendly, but the relatively new Pelican Bluffs Coastal Trail might have some of the best views yet. It's short, only about two miles, but breathtaking in spots.
And while your dog won't be wowed by walking above the seemingly endless, dramatic shoreline, there's plenty of sights and smells for them to enjoy.

How to get there: If you are heading south on Highway 1, once you leave Point Arena and see Curley Lane on your left you will soon see the parking lot on your right. The lot has only five designated spaces, with one of those for vehicles with disabled placards only, but often people squeeze in a few more spaces on the margins.
At the north end of the parking lot, one trail heads straight north while another heads west from the sign. I first headed west through the trees to get to the ocean quicker, but now I recommend taking the trail headed north instead, even though it seems to take you along the highway.

Because if you take the trail to the north, soon after you head over a small bridge you are treated to a spectacular, sweeping view of the Pacific Ocean and nearly the entire trail before it heads down a long set of stairs to the bluffs below.

 Words to the Wise:
• Dogs must be leashed.
• There are no bathrooms or water available, so be sure and stop in Point Arena to use their free public restrooms that are right off Hwy. 1 with plenty of parking alongside.
• This trail is not for someone looking for a flat, easy stroll along the ocean such as the Fort Bragg Coastal Trail. And there are narrow spots, especially near the south end, that are not recommended for anyone afraid of heights or of being close to cliff edges.

Where to hike with a dog near South Lake Tahoe: Pyramid Creek Loop Trail

This hike offers waterfalls, mountain views and a lovely creek: all right off a large highway heading into the mountains of Northern California. 
So it's a great short trek to try on your way to or back from a destination hike, which is how I found it. We were driving to Carson Pass in the Sierra Nevada when I saw the parking lot and trailhead sign right off Highway 50 and promised to investigate on the way back.
It's a pretty short trail, but not an easy one. Not only because it is steep and rocky, but often the trail just disappears and you're scrambling over rock faces with no signs in sight. I found this frustrating, but my husband said he liked that it wasn't "your typical, just-head-straight-ahead-on-this-very-clear-path kind of trail." He enjoyed the challenge of figuring out where to step next, sort of like climbing a mountain.
And the dog of course had no complaints about a creek to run in and drink from, and plenty of nooks and crannies to explore.
The loop is only about two miles, and takes you to the boundary of the Desolation Wilderness while offering views of Horsetail Falls.

Words to the wise:  

• The rocks by the Cascades, which is literally a long rock face with cascading water, are VERY slippery, and if you let your dog frolic there, they might take a scary slip like ours did. She wasn't injured, but it wasn't fun to watch. Likely not a good spot for older dogs to be off-leash. 
• Also, we did see Bigfoot:

  

  My hubby's "most perfect Patterson pose."